How to transplant overgrown potted and tubular perennials
Along with bright summers today, herbaceous perennials are increasingly planted in potted gardens and decorative containers. Long-lasting, highly decorative, with beautiful foliage, they allow you to add to the usual accents the beauty of completely inimitable massive soloists. It is more difficult to care for grassy plants in containers than to competitors growing in soil. Indeed, thanks to the powerful roots, plants often grow so much that it is very difficult to change the capacity for them.
- The basic principles of transplanting overgrown tubal plants
- Extraction of overgrown plants
- Separation or cutting of roots
- Boarding new containers and primary care
Lush, colorful and irreplaceable grassy perennials are the basis for the design of any garden. They are planted not only in flower beds and discounts, but also used in various other roles. One of them - growing in tubs and pots - allows you to use your favorite perennials as spectacular accents or to grow especially capricious species. On the track, as green "guards", at the entrance to the house or gates, where there is not enough decor, accessories or an interesting vertical accent, grassy perennials allow you to add unusual, bright and eye-catching elements. They differ from summer trees or tubular shrubs with trees, expanding the palette of textures and colors and expressing the style in the design of the garden.
The main advantage of potted and tub-shaped perennials is not their high decorativeness, but their durability. After all, herbaceous perennials preserve the beauty for many years, they do not need to be planted annually and seedlings are constantly grown. For the winter, it is enough to clean the plants in a cool room or insulate the tubs and containers, and in the spring, as soon as the weather permits, take them out to the garden again. These are beautiful accents for decoration for many years.
It is in durability that lies the main problem of growing herbaceous perennials in containers. The limited amount of soil does not change the rate of root growth and development of the plant itself. Even the most modest in terms of volume perennials quickly fill the entire available volume with roots and create such a dense root lump that you cannot even see the substrate in it.
The basic principles of transplanting overgrown tubal plants
Container perennials have to be divided quite often, focusing on the signals of the plant itself. Usually, he does not have enough resources and needs to be transplanted, which is indicated by blanching of leaves and lack of free space on the sides of sods and bushes, deterioration of flowering and accelerated drying of leaves. The planned transplants and separations for perennials are quite problematic, because plants usually bloom only after quality rooting, which means that too frequent dividing may not allow them to reveal all their beauty. Therefore, container perennials are divided when this is really necessary.
The need for plants for transplantation means that the roots completely filled the earthen lump. And in the case of overgrown herbaceous perennials, this is almost always associated with the difficulties of removing from the pot, removing from the old container, problems that always arise in the process of transplanting. If the perennial for several years remained in one container, then it almost grows into the walls, sits so tight that the work will require considerable effort.
Dates for transplantation can be chosen at your discretion. Despite the fact that this procedure is not prohibited in the summer (if necessary urgently), it is best to deal with it in the spring, at the beginning of active growth or in the fall, leaving enough time for quality rooting before harvesting for the winter.
Soil, containers and everything you need to transplant container perennials
Before you begin the actual process of transplanting overgrown grassy stars, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and materials. And we are talking not only about earth mixtures or new tanks, but about all the devices that will help you cope more easily.
First, decide on the capacity itself. If the plant was in a medium-sized pot or tub, then an increase in its volume can be envisaged. But if your perennial already grows in a very large container, which is more difficult to find (or in the case when increasing the capacity is impractical from the point of view of convenience, beauty, transportation features, etc.), it is not necessary to change the capacity. When transplanting, it will be necessary to take measures to reduce the volume of the root system and its separation, but leave the capacity intact. In this case, in addition to the old one, several more containers are selected in which you can transplant the dividends. New pots must be thoroughly cleaned, washed, and disinfected. If you leave the old pot, prepare brushes, sponges and everything you need to clean them, so that during the transplant you can quickly do the job. Herbaceous perennials are best grown in tubs or pots of natural materials - wood, ceramics, and not plastic. Such plants are more sensitive to air exchange and poorly developed in isolated pots.
The substrate for growing container perennials should be not just high-quality, but one of the most nutritious. Loose and fertile, not too heavy, but not ultralight soil containing organic and mineral fertilizers, will give plants the opportunity to develop normally. For perennials, you can use independently composed substrates based on garden soil, but sand, compost, organic matter are necessarily added to it, and if necessary, their characteristics and structure are adjusted. It is best to use off-the-shelf substrates with proven performance. Saving on substrates for perennials can be troublesome.
Also useful in transplants:
- Convenient large table, inverted stool or small construction goats, on which it will be possible to turn heavy pots.
- Sharp knives, hand saws or hacksaws, a hammer, scissors and other tools that you can help yourself with your work.
- Tanks for soil and water.
- Protective film for covering work areas and preventing coating contamination.
- Comfortable gloves and several sponges and cuts of old fabric, which can also be used in work.
But the main thing you should think about if you need to plant large frame perennials is the assistant. When separating sods and bushes, the work of removing from the old tank without additional support you can not do.
Extraction of overgrown plants
The process of getting large and filled perennials from tubs and pots into the entire space is not an easy task. To begin with, it is worth wrapping your hands around the entire plant, holding the stem securely, try pulling it slightly and see how firmly the roots sit in the container. Before proceeding, clean the plant from dry leaves, if necessary, prune.
Pulling plants up is the most traumatic of the options. It is best to carry out work on plant extraction by turning the tank upside down: loose and contaminated soil will crumble from above, and you can “pull out” the tank, not the plant, reducing the likelihood of injury. You can install inverted pots on goats, an inverted stool, or even a stepladder laid horizontally on a reliable support. If the container allows, squeeze the walls. If the materials are solid, carefully draw along the walls with a knife or spatula and try to remove the container from the root ball.
If the container has become unusable or the plant cannot be removed by any of the methods, it is better to destroy the tub or the pot itself with a hammer, saw, or other construction tools: piece by piece crack the walls of the container until you can get a perennial out of it.
When the plant is removed from the pot, do not rush to turn it over. So, upside down, it is much easier to inspect. To understand the condition of the plant and the actual volume of the root system, straighten all the roots, disassemble the tangled and twisted roots. If the root lump is very dense and the roots are strong, this work can be done with a hand rake or tools for indoor plants.
Separation or cutting of roots
Shortening the volume of the root system, trimming too large a rhizome is a procedure well known to all owners of indoor bonsai, which can also be carried out for garden plants. But not for grassy perennials. Roots can be shortened in tubs and trees, but not in grassy stars. Trimming the roots of the latter can cause their death. And shortening is carried out only in one case - when the plant is affected by soil pests or rot and the roots are sanitized with pruning and wound healing.
Separation of overgrown perennials is the optimal strategy. Grassy perennials usually grown in separate containers are divided into two parts (three are the largest number of delenki). Dividing the bushes in half, you can reduce the volume of the plant and at the same time get such potted or tubular plants, the maximum decorativeness of which you would not have to expect for too long a period.
Overgrown perennials are rarely obtained manually. The easiest way to reduce root injuries and get quality dividends is to cut the rhizome from the bottom (from the bottom of the pot) to the base of the stems with a sharp hacksaw or handsaw. If the plant is not large, the separation can be carried out with a shovel or a sharp knife.
Slices or injuries on the roots of each delenka are allowed to dry; if possible, wounds are treated with wood ash. Perennials with low disease resistance are best etched in a fungicide solution.
Boarding new containers and primary care
Perennials are planted in containers, setting them so as to maintain the same level of penetration. When planting, observe the rules for this procedure, characteristic of individual species. Usually, for container perennials, a drainage layer is necessarily laid at the bottom of the containers. It is better not to cover it immediately with a substrate, but with a thin layer of sand. Containers and voids between the roots are carefully filled with soil, and the roots themselves are straightened as carefully as possible.
After planting, mandatory watering is carried out, but the following procedure is carried out only when the soil has completely dried out. If the division was carried out in the spring, plants should be protected from direct sunlight. Top dressing can not be carried out a month after transplantation. When separated in the fall, plants are quarantined or in a buffer zone, and then taken to normal conditions and carefully watched, necessarily giving time for adaptation before harvesting for the winter.